Friday, September 26, 2008

The Wild in Chennai

As the second most populous nation in the world, India is packed with people, everywhere. But even beyond the people, it is a country teaming with all kinds of life (most of which I try to keep out of my stomach).

I hope to see a tiger and ride an Indian elephant while here. In the meantime, everyday life in India is full of animals in various states of domesticity. They add to the vibrancy and vitality of the place as well as to the noise, chaos, and waste.

A tribe of goats live on my street and forage through the trash heaps next door, filling a role as both trash compactor and garbage disposal. Several new kids were born in the last few months and they are very cute. However, I have a dreadful suspicion that they will end up in the open air butcher shop on the corner, unfortunately.

Helping the goats in going through the garbage are hundreds of feral dogs; any truculence toward humans seems to have been beat out of them long ago. They vary in color from white to tan to black, but otherwise they all look the same, likely due to generations of interbreeding; purebreds here are very rare and a real curiosity.

This morning I woke up to find a cow tied up outside my compound. I didn't give it a second thought as I walked passed. People seem to leave their cows tied up all over the place. It is not uncommon to see them standing lazily outside of posh retail shops or pulling old wooden carts down busy urban highways, as buses, trucks, cars, auto-rickshaws, motorcycles, and bicycles whiz around them.

As a wanna-be economist imbibed with a profound respect for property rights, I've often wondered how people keep track of ownership of the various chickens, cows, and goats that wonder through the streets of Chennai. Back in the U.S., I think my mother still has nightmares (thirty years later) of chasing cows and chickens that got out of their enclosures while my father was at work; trying to prevent them from doing any damage or trespassing on a neighbor's lawn. Here, all sorts of animals seem to wander around, unconstrained and unfettered by human boundaries.

The porous boundaries and constant interaction between the worlds of many different species can be frustrating, but it is also enlivening. Much of the developed world is covered in concrete and buildings, sterilized to the point of tedium. Many humans encase themselves in temperature and air quality controlled cubicles, the extent of their daily contact with nature consisting of a scenic postcard on the wall. Sure life is more precarious here; it is not manicured, regulated, confined, encapsulated, safe. But that makes if feel more real, less easy to take for granted. Somehow, the threat of imminent bad makes me better appreciate the good times. Perhaps it is strange that a life of high peaks and low valleys seems preferable to me than a dull, easy, safe existence?

Not that I would mind a faster Internet connection or better air conditioning, however.


Along with the parakeets, I also again have "pet" geckos which live in and around my apartment. Thankfully, I don't have to feed these ones live crickets.


Crows are everywhere here. Luckily, I haven't read any Poe lately.


Some of my neighbors.


Unfortunately, I fear that this is where they end up. If I did need a daily reminder of how great it is to be a vegetarian, this would be it.


This guy was tied up just outside of my building. Notice the blue paint and metal tips on the horns.


Dogs mostly come in three shades: light, darker, and dark.


There must be some socially understood system to determine ownership of animals within neighborhoods; these chickens don't seem to feel any constraints about wondering wherever they please.


One of the kittens who frequents our cafeteria at work and successfully begs for food each day.


More pictures here.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Water is Life

Although I grew up in a desert under the cloud of constant drought, I've only recently come to realize the importance of water. I used to pride myself on my camel-like ability to run long distances on very little water. Here, I have to be constantly vigilante to guard against dehydration. Although I think summer humidity in Boston is probably worse than the humidity here, I lose a lot more water here due to stomach issues and more sweating (a consequence of less pervasive use of air conditioning and often being crowded into vehicles filled to twice or three times their capacity). I've also been more heightened to my water usage as I must pay for the water that I consume (my body can only handle bottled water). Compounding my awareness is the fact that the water in my apartment is so full of minerals (or something) that the constant leak from my water heater has left a permanent stain on the bathroom floor and any water left on dishes after I wash them leads to rust spots as soon as it dries. I really hope this caustic water isn't somehow damaging my skin...

Waterways that I've seen here in Chennai are mostly disgusting; noisome, putrid, fetid—like open sewers. I can often tell when I am riding over a bridge, even if I can't see the water below because of the intense noxious odor. Very sad, but not really surprising as I see at least four or five men urinating in public everyday and it isn't uncommon to see children defecating by the side of the road (it isn’t just puppy poo you have to be careful to avoid here). It makes me appreciate the public service announcements that I heard in Uganda encouraging people to use latrines. It also makes me a little homesick for the "pristine" Charles River in Boston.

Some have argued that water will be more important than oil before the end of this century. I'm not sure of all the details, but I do know that water is pretty basic to life in a way that oil is not. My father has made a really good return on investment on the water shares that he retained from the old farm. Maybe it is time for me to adjust my portfolio...in the meantime I'll be investing in Aquafina—one bottle at a time.


A typical waterway in Cheannai.





Elliots Beach in Besant Nagar is a little nicer than Santhome Beach, although still not suitable for sun bathing.


A cool Hindu temple.


Not sure why this elaborate design was outside a FabIndia (a chain store which sells clothes and household goods), but it was pretty cool.

As usual, more pictures can be found here.

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Some scenes of the city

I haven't had much time to explore the city yet. As I do, I'll post pictures. Here is the first installment.


A Hindu temple with St. Thomas Basilica (Catholic Church) behind.



St. Thomas Basilica--one of the most beautiful buildings I've seen in Chennai. According to tradition, Thomas, one of the 12 apostles of Jesus Christ came to Chennai in 52 C.E. He was assassinated with a spear in 72 C.E. This is one of three Catholic Churches in the world that is said to be built on the tomb of an apostle. The other two are the Basilica of St. Peter, built over the tomb of St. Peter in Rome and the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela built over the tomb of St. James in Spain.



Although this is the tomb of Thomas, I believe that most of his remains were moved to the Middle East centuries ago.



Santome Beach on the Bay of Bengal. I've been told that there are nice beaches in India, just apparently not here in Chennai. Going to the beach to sunbath and swim is not really in the culture here.



Fishing.



Fishing nets.

More pictures can be found here.

Also, by special request from Sue, I've uploaded a short, very non-professional video of my apartment which can be found here. Although small, if local people were living here, this place could probably house a family of five (or more). Rich, spoiled American...I know.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Church in Chennai

The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints has about 30 congregations in India, mostly in the south. The Hyderabad area has the biggest concentration of members. In Chennai there are two congregations: one small, mostly Indian and one which is much larger and sprinkled with a few ex-pats.

As I've traveled and lived in Europe, Africa, the U.S. east coast, and now India, one of the most comforting things for me is to be able to connect to a group of local people who largely share similar values and moral codes. Amidst the sea of incomprehensible differences in language, culture, food, customs, etc. the church is one place I can go to feel something familiar. It provides an instant network, community, and resources. Even if I don't always understand the language being spoken, there is a feeling of peace, security, implicit trust, common association, and the knowledge that each of us, as individuals, are striving to be better. The local congregation provides me with instant friends and contacts that can help me navigate the culture as well as great opportunities to serve and really get to know the daily details of the lives of the people. So often, ex-pats live in a different world than those who surround them; they isolate themselves to specific upscale restaurants and foreign enclaves and associate primarily with others who are like them, never really getting to know the culture in which they are living. Being part of the church community helps me to overcome some of the cultural distance, to feel a kinship with the local people, to be of greater service, and to have a refugee that feels almost like home.



The sign for the church (Chennai Second Branch). It is easy to miss if you don't know where to look.


The congregation meets on the first floor of this building.


Some of the members and missionaries in the branch.

More pictures can be found here.